
Vittoria Shoe Manufacturing ~
A visit to the small Vittoria factory in
Northern Italy reveals how much care and work goes into the making of each and
every Vittoria shoe. There are no robots there, just real people dedicated to
making the finest cycling shoes in the world.

The shoe starts out as bolts of raw
material: Lorica®, nylon mesh, etc. Layers of these materials are laid on top of
each other and are cut into the various parts of
the upper of the shoe. The cutters look like giant cookie cutters. Material that
has been cut is shown on the right.
Vittoria
sends these cut pieces out to another location which sews them together into the
upper. A Raider upper is shown on the right, but it's shape isn't as obvious in
that photo as the bunch of Blitz
uppers in the boxes on the left. The heel cup has been sewn in, so the back has
nearly its final shape, but the front part is basically flat as a pancake.

This man is holding a last: a plastic
form that the shoe will be built around. Each size has its own last. Vittoria
uses the same last for all the different models of shoes. A Fly or Fun or Jet
has the same internal shape as a Raider or Rock. In early 1997, Vittoria had all
new lasts made that were slightly wider to better accommodate Northern European
and American feet.

In the first finishing step, the insole
is nailed on to the last.

The flat uppers are formed and shaped
with heat and pressure before the last is inserted.

The upper now has the last inserted (you
can see it above the man's left hand, inside the shoe), and the whole unit is
put into a machine which folds the upper around the last, and down around the
insole. The machine that does this looks like it has a dozen powerful
clothespins that grip the upper and pull and stretch it around the last. The
upper is glued to the insole (above and below) which was earlier nailed to the
last.


View of the upper, partially folded
around and glued to the insole.

The gluing process is completed by hand.
After
gluing, the bottom of the shoe is run by a grinder, to make a nice smooth
surface for applying the outer sole. Also at this point, the nails that
originally fastened the insole to the last are removed. On left, the shoe with
the smoothed surface.

Piles of soles (these are ATB soles)
await fastening to uppers.

Glue is applied to the sole.

The soles with glue are warmed for
affixing to the upper. Look on the device in front of the worker: you can see a
sole sitting on a platform. This platform pivots around 180°, into the area
where you can see very bright light. There's a platform on that side too, with a
sole that is being warmed in that "oven". For each upper
he picks up, he spins around the heating device and gets a freshly warmed sole,
while turning in another to heat.

The sole is pressed onto the upper.

After hand placement, the shoe with the
newly glued sole is put into a cradle, and a hydraulic device brings down two
"pushers", one which rests on the last, and one on the toe. The shoe is held
under pressure here to set the glue.

The final step is to remove the last:
the post coming up under the man's right hand fastens into a hole in the last;
the tan object just to the right of his fingers is a soft, sticky rubber. The
shoe is held against the rubber while the hydraulic device below pulls out the
last.

Mrs. Vercelli (wife of Vittoria founder
Celestino Vercelli) personally inspects each pair of shoes and packs them into
boxes, ready to go.
Custom
Vittoria Shoes ~
Vittoria makes custom shoes for its
sponsored racers. This process is particulalry interesting. They start with the
last that is closest to the correct size, then modify it for the individual. If
the last is too large in a particular place, it is shaved off. If the shoe would
be too snug, a little leather is nailed on to the last to make that part of the
shoe wider. See the far side of the toe of the Pantani (front) last, the near
side of the toe of the Bartoli (fourth from the front) last, and the top of the
toe of the second from the top.

Here are special guests Carol and Bill
McGann Of Torelli Imports USA and Mauro and Antonio Mondonico of framebuilding
fame along with Celestino and Mrs. Vercelli, and their son Edoardo.

This page was last edited on
11/04/2004
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